Rusinga Island, Kenya
June 15th, 2006
Fisherman at sunset, Lake Victoria
Just back from two weeks in Kenya. It was sort of a vacation. Probably better than a vacation, though I had to tromp around in the hot sun with 25 lbs of photographic glass on my back. I managed to get myself attached to a paleontological expedition as a photographer, to Rusinga Island, part of that small bit of Lake Victoria (zoom in to see Rusinga) that belongs to Kenya. It’s quite possible that some of my photos will be used at the American Museum of Natural History’s new Hall of Human Origins. We’ll see.
I should note that it’s quite unusual for a paleontological expedition to bring along a photographer. If you’re successful, and you’ve already found the missing link, and you’ve got National Geographic to sponsor you to go back to the site for the posed “Eureka” moment, yes they will send a photographer. Otherwise you’re lucky to get a working hurricane lamp.
This particular mission featured three young paleontologists out to make a name for themselves, and there wasn’t much excuse for me going along.
Will Harcourt-Smith, Kieran McNulty, and Holly Dunsworth, intrepid young paleontologists
Two circumstances conspired to get me on this trip. One, my father did his dissertation on the geology of Rusinga and mapped the whole island, while I as a 7-year-old went to one of the local schools, and they wanted him along to show them the likely fossil localities; and two, I paid my own way. That helps. I’m not quitting the Internet just yet….
I was a little anxious. I’d stored up many memories of my childhood there (living in a tent, swimming in the lake, nourishing my budding interest in ornithology), and I was worried that the place had been trashed. It was certainly more populated than it had been, but I’m happy to say it was still lovely, people still friendly, the lake (though in deep trouble) is showing signs of regeneration. At Rusinga Island at least, there were fish, otters, monitor lizards, and abundant bird life.
African fish eagle with catch
There isn’t any Internet to speak of in Kenya, by the way, at least outside of Nairobi. No computers either. Or electricity. Or running water. The roads are barely passable. My impression was that the digital divide is the least of the divides there. Everyone is desperately poor, and most are living an agricultural life, on small plots growing maize or millet, just one or two bad harvests away from a serious food shortage. And yet (just as I remember as a child), the people are the salt of the earth, friendly and generous and welcoming.
Young Luo boys on Rusinga Island
I put some (non-paleontological) photos up as a set on Flickr. I took hundreds of photos, this is just a small selection. Comments welcome.
Tags: Kenya, Rusinga, paleontology, Luo, digital divide
You say all the right things…. Thanks.
Antony | June 16th, 2006 at 9:35 am
The photos shown on Flickr were outstanding. You really do have a perspicacious eye and not only for creating internet marketing sollutions,but also for taking someone with you on an adventure through your eyes. We can see the wide range of talents and abilities you possess. You truly are a visionary.
Simone | June 16th, 2006 at 3:32 pm
As a Kenyan and an aspiring photographer, I think you have done such a wonderful job; the view selections and clarity is phenomenal! Keep it up
Tonny | August 16th, 2006 at 7:31 pm
As the former the director general of the international center of insect physiology and ecology, with global headquarters in Nairobi and one of its filed station on the shores of lake Victoria, just across from Rusinga island, i know the region very well, having spend may weeks there. i would like to correct a misconception about internet access there….there is broadband access in Mbita at the icipe station , which is made available to the pupils and students at the icipe school, which is open to local people, not exclusively to icipe staff .
So the situation is by far not as bad as described in the blog. This does not mean that is cannot be improved, actually it should. This is why my son and I have come up with an alternative to the web, the use of the worldspace satellite to download books for schools and also the introduction of handheld devices for kids to facilitate access to information and learning. the tests done at the icipe school in Mbita turned out very positive.
http://www.eduvision.or.ke/intro/page22.html
http://www.biovision.ch/english/projekte/index.html
http://www.technologyreview.com/TR35/Profile.aspx?Cand=T&TRID=473
Also, the island shown on the picture above are most beautiful, covered with birds…actually the whole area is absolutely splendid and deserves to be visited….
Hans R Herren | September 14th, 2006 at 5:03 pm
Thanks very much for the considered comment. I actually stayed 3 nights at ICIPE, where you were Director General, and although there was Internet there, we weren’t able to use it, nor as far as I could see was anyone except staff using it. ICIPE itself is a wonderful institution, and everyone was unfailingly friendly. But Internet? Sorry to say, it wasn’t available. I even traced the Ethernet cables and tried to connect, but it didn’t work.
I’m sure that if we had had some kind of emergency, we could have used the Internet, but it didn’t seem to be available to all comers.
But I do agree with you on the beauty of the area. You must remember that I am also remembering it from 30 years ago, and it was, as is too often the case, less populated and more beautiful then…
Antony
Antony | September 14th, 2006 at 5:34 pm
Hi! it’s unfortunate that I have to read your blog very many months late. I come from Rusinga and grew up there and my family lives there.
I must say that I’m very impressed by the photo’s and the impression you got. We are very friendly people! and the place is beautiful and you really begin to appreciate this if you are far away from home
But I think you just had a bad Day at ICIPE….. Thats where I used to go to access the internet. I Agree with Hans…actually the broadband access was faster that what you would find in many cyber Cafe’s in Nairobi.
And Things are slightly moving. We have electricity upto Mbita Point and piped water Just afew Kilometers into the Island. Otherwise we still get our water from the lake.
And I’m just curious! which local school did you go to? probably we went to the same schools……
Kudos! I’m very impressed by your work!
Okunyah | April 16th, 2007 at 10:12 pm